Understanding skin types

Understanding skin types

There are more than one ways to categorize skin into groups based on different attributes and behaviors. These categories are called skin types. Dividing skin into categories might seem a bit arbitrary, as every skin is unique, but it is an easy way to guide people towards products that will best suit their needs.

There is, for example, the Fitzpatrick classification, named after Thomas Fitzpatrick, the dermatologist who developed a scale of 6 different skin phototypes based on the amount of melanin on the skin and its reaction to UV radiation exposure. Dermatologist Leslie Baumann developed another classification, the Baumann skin type classification. She suggested a system of 16 proposed skin types which are defined by the combination of the following characteristics - oily vs dry, resistant vs sensitive, pigmented vs non pigmented, wrinkled vs tight.

The classification that has dominated the market is pretty close to what Helena Rubinstein defined back in 1912. Rubinstein, a cosmetics entrepreneur, divided skin into 3 categories: normal, over-moist (oily) and dry, based on the amount of oil produced by skin glands. This “oil” is a mixture of sebum and other epidermal lipids. It forms a protective barrier on the skin and protects it against water evaporation.

Nowadays, we commonly divide skin into 4 basic skin types based on how much oil your glands produce: dry, oily, combination and normal skin.

Dry skin is characterized by less than enough oil production. The skin might feel itchy, tight, and flaky with less visible pores.

Oily skin, on the other hand, produces too much oil. Larger pores appear on oily skin and it might even look shiny throughout the day or even a few hours after cleansing. Excessive oil production can also be associated with acne.

Combination skin has both oily and dry patches. Usually, the oily parts are found in the T zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and the dry parts appear on the cheeks. Of course there can be other ways that these patches are distributed on the face.

Normal skin produces a balanced amount of oil. It is common in children and people before puberty. The skin looks smooth and clear. The name of this particular skin type can be rather problematic. 

Normal does not necessarily equal healthy skin, it just describes oil production that is enough for your skin not to feel dry but not so much that would make your skin feel oily. All skins are normal, we just have to focus on the specific needs of each skin and what works best for us.

Achieving normal skin is not the ultimate goal of skincare. The goal of skincare is to help us manage whatever skin type we may have. Changing your skin type on purpose is impossible as oil production is basically controlled by your genes. However, several factors can affect your skin type such as medication, aging, stress, hormones, and general lifestyle. 

It is important to distinguish skin types from skin conditions. Skin conditions affect your skin’s health. While skin types cannot be changed, skin conditions can usually be managed with the right routine, even though some of them can be quite persistent. In our next article we will discuss this topic in more detail to help you figure out how skin works.